• 30Oct

    These were the words of the woman who helped us book our skydive with Skydive Taupo yesterday. SKYDIVING?! Yes, skydiving. Taupo is the adventure capitol of the North Island and we had been told by many travelers we had met if you were going to throw yourself out of a plane, this was place to jump. Before leaving the States, John was fairly certain he wanted to skydive. Erin, on the other hand, was pretty much against it. But, after many people told her how fantastic it was, including Newberg family members, she was convinced it would be worth the experience.

    We arrived in Taupo expecting to be here for several days organizing the jump, waiting for good conditions, and perhaps taking a course on proper jumping and screaming techniques. To our surprise the concierge was able to call Skydive Taupo at 9:30am and have a limo here by 10:15am to pick us up (no extra charge for the limo, but it did have a license plate that read “JUMP US”). This quick booking was probably a good thing, giving us no real time to think about it or second guess our decision. The Skydive Taupo folks were really nice and made you feel safe about your decision to throw yourself from a perfectly good plane. Within an hour of being collected at our holiday park, we were suited up and boarding a bright pink plane attached to our skydiving instructor.

    John and I chose to jump from 15,000 ft–the highest height you can jump from in Taupo–which meant 60 seconds of freefall followed by about 5 minutes of parachute flight. The flight up to our jumping altitude was beautiful. Lake Taupo is the largest lake in the North Island and is bordered by incredible, snow covered mountains. The view from above was spectacular. We were above the clouds! As we reached 15,000 ft a red light in front of us turned green and we knew we had very little time before that door would open and we would fall out of the plane. Sure enough, in minutes the door opened and the insturctors wasted no time in getting us out. John was second to go and Erin was third. It was quite an experience watching John fall out of the plane.

    As you fall out of the plane, it disappears from view very quickly and you accelerate up to 125 mph in less than 8 seconds. It is extremely cold at that altitude and the wind chill makes it even colder. Our ears were popping and hurt and we were doing our best to follow our instructors directions and enjoy the ride at the same time. We didn’t really even have time to think about the chute opening and before we knew it the 60 seconds was over, we had fallen 10,000 feet and were now sailing smoothly over the landscape. The next thing we knew we were floating in the air, with our legs dangling, looking across at each other about 50 ft apart, laughing and enjoying the ride. And then our instructors took us into a spiraling dive-combine the biggest roller coaster and tilt-o-whirl into one ride and that’s kind of what if felt like (Molly would hate it).

    In no time at all, we were being briefed on how to land and in what seemed like seconds, were back on the ground, still laughing and grinning ear to ear. The adrenaline and other natural drugs were pumping through our bodies.

    Is it worth it? Yes and no. It’s probably one of the most expensive 5 minute adventures you can have but unlike any other 5 minutes you’ll experience in your life. Would we do it again? Probably not unless someone else foots the bill. It is cheaper to jump in NZ than back home which was part of our rationale for doing it here. Plus, Taupo is the informal skydive capitol of the world. In the summer months, they push an average of 400 people out of a plane every day with a nearly perfect rate of success. Just kidding, all the diving outfits have impeccable records. If you do decide to skydive, don’t read the warning label on the back of your harness. It provides very little comfort.

  • 28Oct
    New Zealand is home to hundreds of incredible hikes, or walks as they call them here. We knew in coming to NZ that we wanted to spend a good portion of our time backpacking, or locally referred to as tramping. In reviewing our “Tramping in New Zealand” Lonely Planet guide we were overwhelmed and just needed a place to start our planning. The NZ Department of Conservation (DOC) has labeled eight walks and one river journey as “Great Walks.” According to our guide, “The Great Walks are New Zealand’s premier and most popular tramping tracks… This is because of

    Here we go

    Here we go

    their outstanding scenery…” The walks are extremely diverse–not one is like the other. It seemed most obvious us to begin with the Great Walks. Now, we can’t do them all, but we hope to do five of the eight, totalling 20 days in the bush. We have gotten some funny looks from Kiwis when we tell them our plan. Many of the locals we have talked to haven’t done many, if any, of the Great Walks. At the first Great Walk the forest service rep hadn’t actually even done the walk. We found that to be a bit odd–you’d think it’d be a prerequisite.

     

     

     

    Here’s a quick look at what our first Great Walk at Lake Waikaremoana experience was like:

     

    DAY ONE

    We were starting to get the feeling that rain in NZ was just a shower here and there. That feeling has changed… Around 7am the rain began and it didn’t stop until–well, it didn’t stop. In fact, as we ascended 1500 feet to the summit at 3700, it was no longer raining, it was snowing (and sticking). The wind was whipping around 30 mph (uh, 50 km/hr sounds better) and we were frigid. Thankfully, the Great Walks have these super cool things called huts spaced throughout the track and there was a warm hut right at the summit with people waiting to greet us. Unfortunately, this was not our ultimate destination. Also a bummer, the view from this hut is supposed to be spectacular looking one way at a panoramic shot of the lake and the opposite view all the way to the sea. We could not see either. All we could from here were a few bushes 10 feet away and a mass of clouds covering everything else.

     

    Motivated by hearing the next hut had a roaring fire and knowing we needed to get off the summit before the weather got worse, we marched ahead through some of the muddiest track and coldest weather we have ever experienced hiking (save for the trip to Middle Sister with the Schneiders when it dumped snow on us in September–we thought about you guys a lot on this hike!). Nearly 6 and a half hours and 16.5 km (10 miles) after we began walking, we arrived at the Waiopoa Hut soaking wet and chilled to the bone. With water squishing between his toes, John realized that the word “waterproof” labeled on the side of his boots did not mean the same as what he thought waterproof meant. We were immediately welcomed by Tom, the hut warden. **Sidenote on the hut system: Prior to leaving the trailhead, hikers must make a reservation at each of the stops they will make along the journey. If you plan to stay in the huts, you have to know in advance which huts you’ll be staying in and pay for those huts. You cannot change your reservation once you are on the track. You must stay where you say you are going to stay. You can also choose to camp (which was our choice as it was half the price of the huts) but the same rules apply: you cannot upgrade to the huts when it’s pouring down rain, unless it’s a matter of life or death.**  As we mentioned to Tom that we would need to set up our tent he said that there was plenty of room in the hut and that it didn’t seem like tenting weather.  John said, “I thought we couldn’t do that.”  Tom said, “I won’t tell if you don’t.”  So we decided to quickly claim a bunk before Tom changed his mind. We came inside, changed into dry clothes, and stood by the fire for a least hour until we could feel our fingers again.  We were extremely thankful that we didn’t have to sleep outside as it continued to rain and the temperature dropped below freezing overnight. 

     

    DAY TWO

    What a difference a day makes. The weather we were expecting the day before was finally appearing. We woke to frost on the ground, but sun in the sky. This day’s hike was much easier than that of Day One. We had only 12 km/ 7.5 miles to go and most of it was around the lake so the track was relatively level. Lake Waikaremoana is a beautiful lake–we won’t bore you with details, but check out the photos for a look at what we were seeing. One of the coolest wildlife we continued to see were black swans with their baby swans, which were white. They were fascinating to watch.

     

    15 minute exposure of the night sky

    After hours of battling a mosquito like bug, we realized we had run into the infamous sand flies we had been warned about. They are just as awful as the legends tell. They draw blood and leave big welts that itch for days. As innocent as they look, they are viscious little creatures. 

     

    DAY THREE

    We woke up early and had to get going in order to arrive at our final destination by 2pm to catch the water taxi back to our car. The track today was similar to that of the day before, mostly lakeside walking. As we looked across and saw the summit we had been at just two days prior, we were bummed that we had missed such a spectacular view, but were grateful for the sun. Rather than wearing five layers of every piece of clothing like we had been the day we set out, we were wearing shorts and t-shirts and were sweating!

     

    We got to the water taxi pick up point just in time and enjoyed cruising across the lake, seeing it from a different perspective. With tired bodies we climbed into the van and headed to our next destination back on the coastline, Napier.

  • 24Oct

    We have finally signed up with Flickr and can share some of our pictures with you (we maxed out our Picassa). So far we have a video montage from Fiji (this is actually on YouTube) and our favorite photos from our week and a few days in NZ. That is all we have had time to download for now. We’ll keep trying to update Flickr with new pictures and maybe even figure out how to get a permanent link on our blog. 

    Enjoy!

  • 24Oct
    Categories: New Zealand Comments: 0

    Unfortunately we had to breeze through this section of the North Island, but we did have a chance to take in some of the classic sights/sites. The Cormorandel Peninsula is full of narrow, winding roads that follow the water’s edge. It reminded us of the scenic drive between Tillamook and Pacific City, except the roads were more narrow here. We spent half of the day trying to locate good internet and the other half on the beach.

    We did walk from Hahei Beach to Cathedral Cove and back. This was a beautiful hike down to a small beach with a huge limestone cave like structure that you could walk straight through to the other side of the beach. It was massive–the ceiling was probably 40 feet overhead. We spent some time on the beach enjoying the scenery and taking lots of pictures, of course, before hiking back.

    From there we headed to the infamous Hot Water Beach (or in our case cold water beach). This is spot where you can go and dig mini spa pools that are heated by the geothermal activity underfoot. We did not realize the magic could only take place two hours each side of low tide. We arrived at the beach about 2 hours after prime time and eight hours before the next time we could dig. Nonetheless, we walked on the beach just so we could say we had been there. Who wants to smell like sulphur anyways? Guess we’ll have to save that for our next trip to NZ.

    Today we are spending time in Rotorua, NZ’s most visited geothermal area. Besides using the internet (we have had quite a lot of difficulty finding reliable and affordable internet), we hope to take a walking tour of the city, maybe go to an art museum or a Maori village, and if we can handle it, sit in another hot sulphur pool. From here we will take off for Lake Waikaremoana and be out in the bush for the next several days. Our first Great Walk and official tramp of our time in NZ. We are really looking forward to it.

  • 24Oct
    Categories: New Zealand Comments: 3
    **This post was written October 23. We have been trying to post this for several days and have run into quite a few internet snags along the way. So, here’s your catch up post…**

    We are on our last day north of Auckland. Just a short update on what we have been up to. After the sulphur baths we headed up north to where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet at Cape Reinga. This is a Cape Reinga in the backgroundvery beautiful scene and we caught it on our best day in New Zealand yet. The skies were perfectly blue and the sun was warm. We consider this our best day in NZ so far not just because of the weather, it was an all around great day. We hiked down from Cape Reinga to a nearly deserted beach (only one other set of footprints on the sand) over which we walked about 5km. From there we climbed up and over sand dunes and then finally out to Cape Maria van Dieman, another 4km, which overlooks the Tasman Sea and out to some islands. We took a seat on the nice plush grass that was something like laying back in a foot of powder, pulled out our ham, cheese, and avocado wraps and ate the most delicious meal, looking

    nap time

    nap time

    out an incredible landscape. From there it was only natural to fall back against the grass, close our eyes, and take a nap. After an hour of sleep, we got back on the trail and hiked back to our van. In the seven hours of hiking, we saw only one other person. We finished the day driving to what the map referred to as an “informal campsite.” It ended up being a very nice campground right on the beach, minus the camp host and hot showers.
     
    The following day was one of our longest mileage, er, kilometer, days in the car. We drove from Cape Reinga to Opononi, stopping only briefly in Rawene, to make lunch and stretch our legs a bit around the very small waterfront town. We were trying to get to Opononi in hopes of going sandboarding, which is basically boogey boarding on a sand dune into the water. We had heard great things about this unusual sport and were looking forward to giving a go. Unfortunately, the operation only runs until 2pm and we arrived at 1:30pm. Also, the price had gone up from what we had expected, making us think twice. Ultimately we decided to stay in Opononi for the night because we were tired of driving, and to skip out on the sandboarding, the logic being we have dunes and boogey boards at home and could surely figure it out on our own. We’ll be heading straight to Pacific City when we get home to give sandboarding a try. Let us know if you want to join us, we’ll only charge you $20 NZ dollars instead of the local rate of $25 and throw in some Hokey Pokey ice cream to sweeten the deal (prices and offers subject to change).

    Wednesday we had much shorter drive down the Kauri Coast. The kauri tree is the short, stocky cousin of the tall redwoods seen in California. We saw the first and second largest kauri trees in the country and decided to skip on the seventh largest. Who needs to see the seventh once you have seen the first and second largest? By largest here they mean tallest rather than widest girth. The trees were very impressive and definitely not similar to any type of tree we have back home. Many of the kauri trees have been logged but these few have been spared and are believed to be nearly 2000 years old. It was worth the stop to see these majestic trees, but you can only see so many big trees before you are ready to move on. And so we did, to Baylys Beach.

    The two purposes of coming to Baylys Beach were to check out the surf (which was awful) and visit the Skydome Observatory to see some stars (but it was a cloudy night). Instead we took a nice walk down the beach, ate some dinner at Sharkys (we wouldn’t recommend the beer battered fries with cheese and mayo -

    The Skydome Observatory

    The Skydome Observatory

    more mayo than cheese), and had a personal tour of the observatory. The Skydome Observatory is in the front of Deborah’s home. She is an astronomer whose goal was to provide international astronomers the opportunity to come to the Southern Hemisphere and study the sky without having to drag their equipment along and to give the public a place to see the beauty of the night sky. Like we said it was cloudy, but she showed us the high powered telescope and told us how to find some of the common constellations. We were bummed that we weren’t able to see other galaxies, nebulas, the moons of Jupiter, among other stars and planets. We did get a good mini lecture and learned quite a bit.

  • 23Oct

    We got a tip from a local to go take a soak at a hot springs in the area, Ngwaha Springs. She told us you that this was a real deal natural hot springs, that there were no showers and you would smell when you were done. We had no idea how long we would smell. Unlike body odor that goes away after a good shower or swipe of deodorant, sulphur sticks with you. Our swimming suit and shorts have been washed three times and are still hanging on the side view mirrors in order to keep the smell out of the van.

    a big disgrace

    a big disgrace

    After driving 10km on a gravel road to get to the springs you arrive at an open field with a lake. Place your $5 in the box at the door (it’s on the honor system), throw on your swim suits, and follow your nose to the sulphur smelling pools. There are eight pools of varying temperatures, with exotic names like “Tranquility” and “Lobster”. The hottest of the pools was probably around 125 degrees Farenheit. John lowered himself in butt first because the thermal mud floor was too hot  for his sensitive toes. We spent about two hours soaking in the tubs with the locals, chatting about everything from fishing to politics and even heard a story about a woman who came to the pools twice a week for 12 months and had a fuller head of hair as a result. After one treatment, John has yet to see positive results so we may have to do more testing. Another one of the healing elements of mineral baths, supposedly, is the mud that is at the bottom of the pools. People put it all over their bodies–we aren’t quite sure why exactly, but we tried it anyways. 

    Thankfully the person we originally got the hot springs tip from was wrong about the showers, there was one cold shower. It washed off the mud, but definitely didn’t wash off the stink. Regardless, it was a worthwhile experience, but if you ever decide to do a sulphur bath make sure to leave anything you care about at the door (including stainless steel jewelry-ours turned brown). Maybe that’s why most people try to do these things in the nude?

  • 17Oct

    For all of you who were concerned we would be out of the country during the most important time of the year–the election–and to whom we assured we would get our absentee ballots and vote (Travis Morgan), we are pleased to let you know…

    If we can do it, you can too!

    If we can do it, you can too!

     

    …the ballots were sent yesterday and will arrive in 7 days, we hope. We exercised our right to vote and are now going to spend the rest of our time in NZ exercising our legs.

  • 17Oct

    Upon arriving at the Auckland International Airport John promptly pulled out his handy GPS devSky Tower Reflectionice and determined how far from home (well, technically from Rachelle’s house because that’s where we have a mark for Newberg) exactly we were at that moment. In miles 10,939 km works out to be 6,837. Even though we are so far from home Auckland reminds us of Portland, but with palm trees.

    We spent just about 48 hours in Auckland gearing up for the next 9 weeks. Gearing up meant finding a campervan to hire, picking up camping supplies we didn’t bring with us, purchasing a small guitar for John, sampling the fine food of the city, figuirng out a general route to take around the country, and visiting with the Department of Conservation representative (we’re pretty sure he has spent more time talking to trees than people). Yesterday afternoon we picked up our campervan and slowly made our way out of the city. We say slowly because we’re getting accustomed to driving on the left side of the road–we have found people really don’t like it when we try to drive on the right side, American style.

    The campervan lifestyle is definitely for us. It’s luxury camping! We have a two burner gas stove, broiler, table, mini fridge, double bed, and awning. Also, the “Holiday Parks” of New Zealand are nicer than our home. They have a full kitchen, laundry, internet room, TV room, and this one even comes with a trampoline. Yes, a trampoline like the one you would have in your backyard as a kid. It’s hard to want to leave your van or park during the day. Of course, this is really only day one for us and the weather is a bit cooler so that could have something to do with it too.

    New Zealand is an incredibly beautiful country and we have only seen about 150km of it so far but have wanted to stop about 15 times only have been too afraid to pull the car over. We’ll get the hang of this left side stuff soon. We are in what is considered the Northland of the North Island. The North Island is actually considered to be second rate in terms of beauty in comparison to the South Island, but we have found it to be gorgeous and incredibly green.

    Speaking of green, NZ is very proud of their efforts to be a green country in terms of recycling and general stewardship of the islands. We have noticed a few things already that we really appreciate: the option to half flush the toilet, recycling bins placed throughout the city and even the campground, and most food products are locally manufactured/grown (and we have yet to find anything in the stores that contains high fructose corn syrup!!!). It seems like most folks are on board with the efforts to keep this place as beautiful and natural as possible.

    We are heading to the Bay of Islands today where we plan to find a good tramp. Then, we’ll probably head up to Cape Reinga where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea meet. From there we’ll head south back toward Auckland, stop at some point at Waiheke Island, then on to the Cormorandel Peninsula, Lake Waikaremoana, Lake Taupo, Tongariro, and Raglan (for surfing), among other stops I’m sure we’ll make. We aren’t sure if we’ll make it all the way down to Wellington, there just may not be enough time. We plan to fly out of Auckland on the 10th of November and down to Christchurch where we’ll pick up a different campervan and cruise around. We will be in the North Island for 23 days total and the South Island for 37 days. We’ll be doing more tramping in the South as there are many more hikes to explore. We are trying our best to quench the feelings of needing to see everything and reminding ourselves of our trip objectives and that we don’t want to run ourselves into the ground. It’s hard to do though when everything here seems to be so cool!

  • 13Oct

    **This is a longer post. We will have a Fiji movie collage up as soon as we get to a better internet connection. For now, a few pictures are at the end of this post.**

    It was easy for us to fall in love with Fiji-the beauty of the Yasawa Islands, the friendliness of its inhabitants,the slow pace of the islands, and keeping Fiji time. The days went by at a nice steady pace; not too slow, not too fast. In some ways its hard to believe its been two weeks since we have arrived. It feels much longer in a good way. We have loved being able to do too much because there is only so much you can do on a island. Living the island life does have its limitations though. We have not seen a single political add in two weeks and are clueless to the current price of oil and feeling pretty good about it. On the other hand, we haven’t been able to choose what we eat or been able to travel more than three miles in any direction without hiring a boat (we know none of you feel sorry for us at all). We have thoroughly enjoyed our two weeks in Fiji but are really excited for whats ahead…New Zealand!

    Here is a list of our “lights” of Fiji-the lowlights and highlights of our time in the South Pacific (in no particular order):

    • John had a close encounter with a bus outside the airport (who would have thought that the buses would be driving on the left side of the road.)
    • We were greeted by singing at our first resort, Waya LaiLai Eco Village
    • Loved the nightly entertainment including
      - Fijian dancing
      -fire dancing
      -village children singing with motions
      -village entertainment group with traditional songs
      -kava ceremony-kava is a traditional drink in Fiji, if you want to get an idea of the taste, take your dishrag at home, get it wet, wring it out into a cup drink it and that is pretty much the flavor of kava. What you won’t get is the numb tongue from the kava root.
      -trio of guitar and ukulele strumming musicians who played Fijian tunes, Eric Clapton covers and even a rendition of “Leaving on a jet plane” which made us think of our niece Kylan.
      -the Bula dance-at first glance this dance was reminiscent of line dancing with Grandma Williams.
    • Snorkeling with reef sharks as well as snorkeling on the reefs near our resorts.
    • Volleyball with the locals. Fijian scoring practices are much looser than those in the United States. When they say the game is done it is done.
    • The first illness of the trip. Erin had a 101 degree temperature and chills. Decided to take a sick day and was back to the hard work of doing nothing the next day.
    • Rice, potatoes, mystery meat, coleslaw, fish, coco fritos, fresh mangos, curry, octopus, fried donuts, lamb, chicken (I mean chicken bones), watermelon, coconut, orange Tange, Fiji bitter beer, coconut cookies, and afternoon tea.
    • Fiji Day Rugby Tournament- at which we experienced our best meal in the Yasawas, a meal that came out of a random woman’s kitchen in the middle of a Fijian village.
    • Fijians know how to make a reservations but don’t know always know how to hold a reservation. See previous blog.
    • Kayaking around the island of Waya Sewa with a hole in our kayak. When the water was up to our waist we knew it was time to come to shore and take a dump… of water that is.
    • Conversations with other travelers, the majority of whom are also on an extended trip like ours (so much for being original). We are begginning to understand how influential the US is and our reputation is around the world. We have met travelers from the UK, Germany, Noraway, Sweden, Switzerland, New Zealand, Japan, Holand, Ireland, Australia, Finland, and Canada.
    • Attending church in the village. There is definitely western cultural influence: a picture of white Jesus with flowing chestnut locks, cellphone ringing in the middle of the service, pews to sit on, and a flower arrangement on the pulpit.
    • Hanging out with the locals-John became somewhat of a celebrity by the end of our time and had quite a following:
      - Johnny the scuba dive instructor who taught Mel Gibson to dive
      - Big Jerry the activity coordinator
      - Sau, another dive instructor, who invited us to stay at his house for a few nights
      - Nancy, the volleyball playing, weaving, dancing, netball playing woman who now has our Neosporin – Joe-Joe the rugby player who invited us to eat under his shaded area
      - James, the man who would sing John an rhyme about “Johnny” something or other when he would seem him coming
      - Manu the 20 something, university educated guy who returned to his village to give back. Sidenote: also a very tough rugby player and caught a poisonous snake with his bare hands.
    • Not seeing the news or other media sources for 14 days. Having watched the news this morning it appears that the economic sky is falling, but all seems to be well in Fiji.
    • Lots of hammock time.
    • We have located the European body double for Derin Williams, our cousin. His name is Johann and he is from Sweden. It was just uncanny how his mannerisms and general demeanor were so similar, not to mention is physical appearance. We couldn’t help but stare. John tried to hang out with him as if he was Derin, but it just got awkward. We showed him a photo of Derin and he could kind of see it, but wasn’t convinced he had a long lost twin. We look forward to finding more body doubles of other friends and family as we travel.

    We spent last night in Nadi, ate some delicious pizza at Mama’s Pizzeria, and had a good night’s rest. We board the plane tomorrow morning and fly out to Auckland. Pictures to come!

  • 13Oct

    **We wrote up this post on paper October 4. Windy weather came through the islands and knocked out the internet connection.**

    Believe it or not, as lovely as Fiji is, shift does happen here. To give you an idea we would like to share with you a quote from one of our favorite episodes of Seinfeld: Jerry says, “You know how to take the reservation, but you don’t know how to hold the reservation. Anyone can just take them…” And this is where the shift begins. We called to change our reservation at our second location only to find they did not have said reservation, despite our email communication and believed confirmation. AND they were all full for the days requested/needed. We went to the drawing board to consider our options. We had plans A, B, C, D, and E which included staying at Waya Lailai for 7 more days, going to New Zealand early, taking a tour of the main island and variations of these. After much delay and a lack of internet connection we decided to stay at Waya Lailai for an additional four nights and then move on to a different resort for a few days before returning for our originally scheduled flight to New Zealand. Our last night in Fiji is booked at a local home stay called “Dee’s Place”. It was advertised on hostels.com and we made a reservation as it is close to the airport. We aren’t holding our breath on this reservation being held either considering the directions given online to tell the taxi driver to go to Joe Grey’s house and then go three doors down. Perhaps if Dee can’t be found, Joe will have a place for us to stay.